Georgia - Gori and Kazbegi

Today has mostly been about climbing. Firstly up to ancient (but still used) church high above the old capital. Then climbing up to an even more ancient cave city cut out of the sandstone at the top of a hill. To say it was uneven underfoot would be an understatement; add in a high gusty wind and it was distinctly alarming.





A detour to the Stalin museum in his home city of Gori, our guide is not a fan.





Then to complete our drive up to Kazbegi in the mountains. The road - the only road through the high Caucasus to the Russian border - twisted and turned and climbed. First to 3000 feet (a Scottish munro), then 4k, then 5k, getting narrower and more pot holed. I tried not to look at the valley floor far below the non existent barrier, only to realise we were now above the snow line. And that isn't mist but a snowstorm at well over 7000 feet. Fresh snow wasn't part of the itinerary. One for the memory books, and one I've no desire to repeat. Except...its the only road, so tomorrow we get to do it all again. Pray for me....





It was still snowing this morning as we headed up to the Gergeti monastery in three tiny 4WD minivans. As we disembarked, the driver spotted my bare feet (in trail sandals) and uttered a horrified "antifreeze!" whilst pointing at me. "Scotland!"


At 7500 feet (nearly double Ben Nevis) I can imagine the views would have been breathtaking on a clear day, but it was magical nonetheless. Four or five monks still live up there year round, tending the church as they have done for centuries.





Coming back over the pass was stunning, white mountains against a brilliant blue sky and the worst potholes you could imagine. Going through one of the avalanche shelters, we inched past a broken down car at an unhappy angle.









Now back in Tbilisi for our last night in Georgia before heading to the Armenian border tomorrow. I took a chance on an internet recommendation and found myself in an unsigned restaurant having the best meal of the trip so far. Also the most expensive at an outrageous £25 for three courses and wine.



Thanks Georgia, it's been great.







Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Uzbekistan - Return to Tashkent

Image
So, back in Tashkent after an amazing tour. I can't quite believe that it's actually time to come home. It's an incredible country with the friendliest most hospitable citizens I've ever met, and so many layers to discover. Now I'm home, there are a million things I could write about Uzbekistan (that I won't because it would bore you). Here's a few though. The country truly is like nowhere you've ever seen. The people are incredibly friendly, beyond anywhere I've been before. You're a guest in their country and they're isn't enough they can do to make sure you're happy and safe (except speak much English!). The depth of history is astounding, going back to the "Dark Ages" of European history in buildings, temples, books and art. It's a secular Islamic society: alcohol is served, clothing ranges from traditional robes to modern Western but reasonably modest. From deserts of the West and south, to the mountains, to the ...
Read more

Uzbekistan - Bukhara - The Crossroads of the Silk Road

Image
Today I could talk about the monuments and trading halls of Bukhara, situated on the crossroads of the Silk Road - North to Russia, East to China, South to India, West to Constantinople and Europe. Or about the well where two thousand women and children were slaughtered by Genghis Khan on his sweep across Asia. Or haggling for silks in the bazaar. But this afternoon we went to a very strange basement room for a tea ceremony. Accompanied by a parade of very beautiful young women in amazing clothes, overseen by a fierce matriarch and the most random decor of high bling mannequins, kitsch temporary, antiques, paintings of semi or fully naked women and a life size model of Genghis himself. It was....not your average Wednesday. Still in Bukhara, the next day was museums and mausoleum, parks and palaces, peacocks and swans. Lots of climbing steps to high places on the hottest day so far. A unique mosque with four towers (there is a grander pair in India) and a memorial building built i...
Read more

Welcome to South America

Image
Twenty six hours of travelling later....partially my own fault for booking a lengthy change window at Heathrow to ensure I made the connection, but also a sixteen hours plus flight to Rio from LHR. Many of the passengers left here, those of us travelling on to BA stayed on board for two hours whilst the plane was cleaned, fuelled, restocked and changed crew. At BA I was met by the local guide and safely delivered to my hotel for a night before an internal flight tomorrow. The rest of the main group will arrive here on Friday as I get back from my detour. So an afternoon and evening to myself to explore the city. It's a little bit Spanish, a little bit Italian, a little bit French, a little bit Eastern European and a little bit I can't place at all. Avenue 9th July (named after the country's date of independence) is the widest avenue in the world: sixteen lanes of traffic, including dedicated bus lanes along the centre and wide treelined walkways between. Actually th...
Read more