Southern Caucasus - Dilijan to Tbilisi

 Another day, another border, this time back into Georgia. I've acquired a lot of stamps in my passport these past two weeks.

The rain and thunder continued all night so we abandoned the planned monastery visit near to Dilijian and went to Samahin instead, a tiny village perched high on the hill above the abandoned copper smelters we saw on our first day. A solitary cable car still hangs over the river from when it was the primary route to work for the villagers.

Off the beaten track in the rain, we have the place to ourselves. Part ruined monastery, part functioning village church, with multiple chapels, library and study rooms. On the wet hillside above sits the village cemetery, from ancient headstones to modern black stone bearing an image of the deceased, a local tradition that I find touchingly human.










At Tbilisi Airport, the majority of the group head for departures and their homeward journey to Heathrow. I, and the other Edinburgh bound traveller, are met by local drivers who deliver us to our respective hotels. His English is limited but I believe he's coming back to collect me at midnight...


Postscript:

There but for the grace of God....
It rained heavily on several days I was away, and we all commented on how fast and furious the rivers were (great potential for white water rafting but definitely at an advanced level).
We drove north from Dilijian to the border and on to Tbilisi on Friday, much of the journey on the main and only road, next to the river.
On Sunday that river, and others, burst its banks. Four people are dead, numerous bridges damaged or destroyed, the road swept away in places, villages and towns underwater, and the border crossing closed for the foreseeable future.
It probably won't make the UK news but its devastating to the region and country.

Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Uzbekistan - Return to Tashkent

Image
So, back in Tashkent after an amazing tour. I can't quite believe that it's actually time to come home. It's an incredible country with the friendliest most hospitable citizens I've ever met, and so many layers to discover. Now I'm home, there are a million things I could write about Uzbekistan (that I won't because it would bore you). Here's a few though. The country truly is like nowhere you've ever seen. The people are incredibly friendly, beyond anywhere I've been before. You're a guest in their country and they're isn't enough they can do to make sure you're happy and safe (except speak much English!). The depth of history is astounding, going back to the "Dark Ages" of European history in buildings, temples, books and art. It's a secular Islamic society: alcohol is served, clothing ranges from traditional robes to modern Western but reasonably modest. From deserts of the West and south, to the mountains, to the ...
Read more

Uzbekistan - Bukhara - The Crossroads of the Silk Road

Image
Today I could talk about the monuments and trading halls of Bukhara, situated on the crossroads of the Silk Road - North to Russia, East to China, South to India, West to Constantinople and Europe. Or about the well where two thousand women and children were slaughtered by Genghis Khan on his sweep across Asia. Or haggling for silks in the bazaar. But this afternoon we went to a very strange basement room for a tea ceremony. Accompanied by a parade of very beautiful young women in amazing clothes, overseen by a fierce matriarch and the most random decor of high bling mannequins, kitsch temporary, antiques, paintings of semi or fully naked women and a life size model of Genghis himself. It was....not your average Wednesday. Still in Bukhara, the next day was museums and mausoleum, parks and palaces, peacocks and swans. Lots of climbing steps to high places on the hottest day so far. A unique mosque with four towers (there is a grander pair in India) and a memorial building built i...
Read more

Welcome to South America

Image
Twenty six hours of travelling later....partially my own fault for booking a lengthy change window at Heathrow to ensure I made the connection, but also a sixteen hours plus flight to Rio from LHR. Many of the passengers left here, those of us travelling on to BA stayed on board for two hours whilst the plane was cleaned, fuelled, restocked and changed crew. At BA I was met by the local guide and safely delivered to my hotel for a night before an internal flight tomorrow. The rest of the main group will arrive here on Friday as I get back from my detour. So an afternoon and evening to myself to explore the city. It's a little bit Spanish, a little bit Italian, a little bit French, a little bit Eastern European and a little bit I can't place at all. Avenue 9th July (named after the country's date of independence) is the widest avenue in the world: sixteen lanes of traffic, including dedicated bus lanes along the centre and wide treelined walkways between. Actually th...
Read more